The majority of the boats moor at Haad Koh Rok, an expanse of crushed-coral sand that looks as if it has been plucked from the pages of a glossy magazine. Mu Ko Lanta national park has shielded Koh Rok from greedy hoteliers, meaning monitor lizards still outnumber humans and an unruly tangle of jungle occupies most of the land. Technically, both are part of Krabi Province, but the spectacular scenery more than merits the more than two-hour longtail boat ride from the Trang islands.
Ringed by a sprawling coral reef submerged just a few metres below the water’s surface, Koh Rok Nai and its twin Koh Rok Nok lure eager snorkellers from Koh Kradan, Koh Ngai, and Koh Muk. If you don’t mind staying a few metres off the main beach, the quirky Paradise Lost (bungalows £14) offers plenty of personality and a terrific value.Īs per entry for Haad Farang (Haad Sai Yao), Koh Muk Haad Man Sai, Koh Rok Nai & Koh Rok Nok The beach’s popular nickname says it all: go at the end of the day to watch the sky flare into magenta, scarlet and saffron.Īccommodation on Koh Kradan runs from a high-end boutique resort to more rustic bungalows. For a more secluded spot, ride a longtail boat for roughly half a kilometre to this cove on the western coast. Most visitors stay and sun on Kradan Beach, a skinny, 2km palm-fringed strip. Bucket bars, beach parties, and other tourist trappings are conspicuously absent, as are convenience stores and ATMs. Even if this island no longer quite qualifies as untouched, the majority of the land is protected by Hat Chao Mai national park, keeping development to a minimum. Cashew trees lend their distinctive fragrance to the air, and at low tide the ripples of the Andaman Sea recede to reveal wide sandbars so bathers can stroll far out into the sea. With sands the colour of Carrara marble and azure waters, it’s easy to see why.
In recent years Koh Kradan has become the most popular of the Trang beaches. Fortunately, as all of Thailand’s beaches are public property, so backpackers can spend the day here regardless of where they’re staying.Īs per entry for Haad Farang (Haad Sai Yao), see above.
Though villa prices rise steeply during high season, the superior lodgings are worth it for those seeking tranquillity. Sivalai Beach Resort (villas from £62 a night) is the only real option if you want to stay on this expansive strip of coastline. Though the waterfront bar’s claim of the “best margarita in the world” may sound dubious, plates such as massaman curry – with slow-braised, bone-in chicken in a rich sauce with crimson coconut oil – are excellent. Meanwhile, Koh Mook De Tara Beach Resort has some of the more authentic dishes on the island.
A bit further inland, Boon Chu (+66 ) has a more local feel and affordable prices, though service is often slow. However, prices are high and the quality tends towards the mediocre. Sivalai Beach Resort has an extended menu of standard Thai and western dishes and is popular for evening meals. Early in the morning, the speckled tracks of hermit and sandcrabs outnumber human footprints Early in the morning, the speckled tracks of hermit and sandcrabs outnumber human footprints. In lieu of the clamour of hawkers, you’ll mostly find couples wading through the glass-clear water. Luxury bungalows line the edge of the sand, but are set back far enough so as not to intrude on the panorama. On the eastern side of the island, about 30 minutes walk or a speedy £1 tuk-tuk ride from Haad Farang, Ao Kham is both longer and more peaceful than its westward-facing counterpart.
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